Napa Valley’s Sustainable Wine Movement
We sat down with CEO of Napa Green Anna Brittan to get down to earth on sustainable wine and how the program works. Vineyards of
But it is the wine, made from the grape Mencia, that will steal your heart.
Traveling to Spain is not on my short list, but I am always up for an adventure. This road less traveled sounds like the perfect escape. I’m heading to a wine region completely new to me. Not only have I never been to this destination, I’ve nary a sip of the wine. France is probably the most well known European wine destination, but Spain? We’ve all heard about Rioja, perhaps experienced a bit of Spanish wine in one of those daring moments in a wine store or restaurant. This time around, I’m ready! Looking forward to learning more about El Bierzo, it’s wine, the region, and the people. What I don’t realize is this adventure, this wildly unexpected adventure will impact me like no other.
El Bierzo is in the Province of Leon. It borders another more well-known wine region in Spain, Galicia. It is three hours northwest of Madrid. Just northeast of Portugal and 2 hours from Santiago de Compostela, the incredible 11th-century gothic cathedral. El Bierzo is an isolated area with 375 villages surrounded by mountains. The upper basin of the Sil River cuts through the middle of Bierzo in Villafranca. The banks of the river are rich in minerals making El Bierzo ideal for agriculture. The richness comes from the tectonic fossae (pit) it resides in. The climate is influenced by the Atlantic ocean and ideal for viticulture.
Humid, with moderate temperature fluctuations, El Bierzo has soil rife with granite and slate. The uniqueness of this terroir adds delightful nuances to the wines of Bierzo.
Most of the vineyards are hilly, rocky and small. It wouldn’t make sense to try and use a machine. Handpicking is the only way to harvest. There is no way to automate this process based on the hills and rocks.
The Journey. El Bierzo’s closest major airport is Madrid. The 3-hour journey was fields and trees, broken up with a phenomenal lunch and my first taste of Spanish food.
The landscape is modest until you get closer to the region. Then the valleys unfold. The hilltops transform into mountains and the vineyards roll out before your eyes. This is El Bierzo.
I stayed in the quiet, peaceful village of Villafranca del Bierzo. This magical place is on the route of the pilgrims who travel on the Camino de Santiago (The Way of Saint James). It was THE Christian pilgrimage of the Middle Ages and continues to be popular. You can’t go five minutes without seeing pilgrims backpacking their way through the village.
It was the ancient Romans who made the first big foray into viticulture. Transforming the production process and finessing the taste of wine was among their achievements. They believed that wine was a vital ingredient to daily life. Drawn to this area by the rich soil and gold they preyed upon this pristine location. Mining was an integral part of the empire. Gold was the fuel that enabled them the means to conquer.
The rich soil made it easy to farm the land and introduce vines and other crops to the region. Their history dates back to 29 BC. The ruins of this failed empire remain in the way of forts and roads. They built a man-made lake and unleashed torrents of water at the mountains to mine the gold. At the bottom of the mountains waiting below for the runoff, workers would gather the riches. Today you can view the handiwork of the Romans at a place called Las Médulas. It’s both breathtaking and dramatic.
When Christianity & the Middle Ages arrived Monasteries used Bierzo to expand viticulture. Castles such as the Templar Castle of Ponferrada, add to the beauty and history.
El Bierzo would not be immune to Phyloxxera in the 19th century when many left the region.
Today, El Bierzo has a thriving wine business and for good reason. This vast experience in winemaking has transformed into intriguing and unique wines. The grapes most produced are Mencia and Godello. Mencia, a red indigenous grape makes up over 2/3 of all grapes grown in the region. The grape produces wines with different weights. From a Pinot Noir like quality to the complexity and weight of a Cabernet Sauvignon, it has range and depth. I found the red wines amazing. Often with a whisper of violet on the nose, fresh fruit, minerality and elegant tannins. These wines are a testament to the region. Not only do the wines show well when young but many can stand the test of time. The most remarkable wine I tasted was a Chardonnay (yes that grows in El Bierzo as well) aged to perfection from 1998 and made by Pablo García and his wife, enologist Noelia of Perez Caramés Winery. I’ve had a few Chardonnays that aged well, but few. This one was an incredible testament to the region and how well they are making organic wines.
Wine has been part of this region forever. Often people made wine for their own consumption or to use in trade. To understand why the vineyards are small, you have to understand part of the culture. It is a tradition for the vineyards to be passed down to the sons in the family. The vineyards remained in the family with the family name intact. The family divided the land according to how many sons were in the family. In some cases, there are scores of parcels. Scattered throughout the region several kilometers away creating a logistical nightmare.
The Adventure and Highlights of the Bodegas
It is sunset on day one. We are stopping at the first tasting of the trip to meet the vintners. Our host is Merayo Winery and we are meeting in their vineyards. I’m exhausted by travel through multiple time zones, but the view and the wine beckon. The landscape is picturesque and invigorating. It’s twilight and the light and temperature could not be more perfect. The gentle breeze makes me shiver, but I shrug it off and focus on the conversation at hand. Pedro Merayo spent years recovering family wine roots and restoring his 110-year-old vineyards. He talks about the journey of returning to making wine in 2010. He stepped away from making wine because his vineyards needed work. Today the vineyards are thriving and the investment was well worth it. It shines through his wines. These are the stories that pique my interest. How do you put something down then return to it with a vengeance? Easy. Passion. Pedro and the Bodega of Merayo made the investment of time work. His outstanding wines have garnered a 90+ point rating from top critics.
A new day and we are heading to the village of Valtuille and to Vinos Valtuille. Marcos and Elena Garcia, the brother-sister team are Vinos Valtuille. They’ve brought a basket of bites and their wine to taste in their vineyards. Set just below an ancient Roman settlement the vineyards bask in the morning sunlight. Their ancestors worked these lands for years. In 1999 Vinos Valtuille was launched. 90-year-old vines sit on 12 hectares. By the taste of the Godello we tasted in their vineyard, the age of the vines is a factor in how the wines resonate. The wine is memorable with a long delicious finish. There are nuances of stone fruit and citrus. It’s refreshing, mouthwatering balance makes it a great wine for grilled octopus.
Doña Rocío of Bodegas Adriá started the mass production winery with her husband many years ago. Today the winery has three of her daughters involved in the day to day operations. The wine they produce is in part by volume. The tanks and holds contain well over 1million gallons of wine. This wine is destined for France and other countries where it will later be blended and packaged. Bodega Adriá is primarily run by Rocío’s granddaughter Margarita. Today they are producing their own line of ageable wines .
Ribas del Cúa Bucking the trends of the past, the Ribas del Cua Winery is run by the women. The goal of the winery? To unify the land and produce top quality wines made with Mencia. Working with their neighbors they were able to acquire a total of 60 hectares of vines to expand their production from over400 original plots. A favorite of mine was the Ribas del Cúa Privilegio. The intense black fruit, cassis, vanilla, and spice made this full-bodied wine a hit. The balance was incredible and the finish, long and delicious. The wines they produce are intense and varied. Food pairing perfection. Like all of the Bierzo wines, well worth exploring.
Pittacum
Six friends set out to produce high-quality Mencia wine and they’ve succeeded. The brand is contemporary, the wines are delicious and thought-provoking.Versos de Valtuille Passion projects in wine are many, but there are not many with the spirit, soul, and fight of one Laura Estéves. This bodega is up and coming.. The wines are young and the family is reestablishing the winemaking tradition started by Laura’s great-grandfather. This is one to watch.
Casar de Burbia Making wine since just 1998 this father-son venture has received international recognition. Son, Isidro Fernández Bello is taking the winemaking process to new heights through his intense know-how in the tech space and reinventing how wine is made using technology. It shines through his wine. They’ve achieved cult wine status. The wines are memorable, well balanced and exceptional.
Bodegas Peique There wine project was open the masses in 1999. The reviews are outstanding. Scores from pro reviewers like Robert Parker are at 90+ on almost every wine they produce. Consistency on every wine. Varietal and blend. Pretty outstanding.
Luna Beberide While this winery makes several wines, there was a standout. Paixar, a full-bodied 100% Mencia red. Black cherries, mocha, and thyme truly make this wine memorable. This red can age as well.
Estefanía Winery Laden with 100-year-old+ vines, this winery has some of the biggest harvest challenges. The steep vineyards of over 800 meters (2600 feet) enable just 10-15 kilos of bins to be filled at a time. This laborious effort and altitude results in wines of breathtaking acidity and balance. My favorite? Tilenus Godello.
Each of the wineries I visited had something unique and remarkable to offer. It’s refreshing to see people who are taking big chances on wine in a region steeped in tradition. Bierzo is one my personal favorites in wine regions of the world.
More for your itinerary: Luzdivina Amigo Winery, Castro Ventosa Bodega, Bodegas Godelia
Highlights of the Visit.
Las Medulas. Romans used their architectural prowess building aqueducts to mine gold. This extraordinary site dates back to 1AD. The gold funded their expansion of the Empire. By blasting water at the mountains, they created water channels for flow. At the base of the mountain people would wait below to sift and separate the soil from the gold. Today, this is a World Heritage Site.
Palacio de Canedo. Once an abandoned castle it has always been a Palace. Today it is an exquisite 14 room hotel. There is an indelible charm you couldn’t get from a new building. There are choices for food in multiple restaurants, and a full store full of all the takeaways you can imagine, including wine and gifts. The visionary behind this concept? Prada. Also known as Jose Luis Prada Méndez. Prada and his wine are Bierzo legends.
Santa María de León Cathedral. The palace of light as it is also known as it the city center of Leon. Built in the 1400’s this Gothic cathedral features 130 intricate stain glass windows. Entombed in the cathedral is a single king, Ordoño II.
Villafranca. This was my headquarters. I stayed at the Parador de Villafranca Hotel which was within walking distance from the town center. The town is like a diamond. The many facets offer glimpses into so many different eras, views, and surroundings. Every morning I would run from the hotel to the river and back. The streets were always desolate at 7:30 am. Perfectly quiet. A solitude you don’t
feel in the US. It was a time to reflect and take in the beauty of my incredible surroundings. What surprised me the most, was at that time the streets were virtually bare. No hustle and bustle. I thought to myself, “Am I safe here running with no one around.” I asked my host, Alicia. She chuckled and said “You are perfectly safe. You may not see anyone in the streets, but the people, they see you. This crazy American woman running so early in the morning.”
El Bierzo Wine There is a preconceived notion about Spanish wine that it isn’t good enough. El Bierzo is different. The grapes are different the soil is different as is the terroir. The Atlantic climate provides the necessary dynamics to grow amazing fruit. The region has all the elements to make outstanding wine and they do. These wines are special. In the landscape of wine history and on the palate. They leave an indelible impression.
Back in Napa… I didn’t have to look far to get another taste of delicious Bierzo. Those in the know have already discovered this Compline Wine Bar & Restaurant in Napa. They serve El Bierzo wine in Napa. It’s good to know it’s close to home now that I’ve discovered the region.
We sat down with CEO of Napa Green Anna Brittan to get down to earth on sustainable wine and how the program works. Vineyards of
Use the Best Dark Chocolate Made for Wine Pairing. Chocolate and wine pairing has never been easier. #Sponsored With an intriguing history, chocolate has garnered
Bouchaine Winery is the spot to discover great Burgundian varieties made in Napa Valley’s Carneros region. Modern winery meets social hour. Bouchaine Vineyards tasting room
It’s a New York kind of night.
#sunset #bloodmoon #TheWineSiren #nyc #newyorkstateofmind #skyline #kellymitchell #winetravel #sustainablefuture #sunlight #streetstyle #sunsetphotography #beautifuldestinations #damtraveler #goodvibes #getoutside ...
Capturing a sense of place, the nuances of the dynamics of terrain, rich history and unique attributes are just a few of the things making a wine something to celebrate. In this post as promised I wanted to share a few of the Rose of Bardolino that made an impact on my palate. Hats off to the new generation of Chiaretto Rose !
Each of these wines offer something unique beyond the typical profile of red berries, minerality and freshness.
In no particular order, these are the Chiaretto that come to mind when I am celebrating a Rose playing a leading role. None of the wine I tasted was created as an after thought. An oh well, I have some extra grapes, let’s see if we can make rose. The people of Bardolino and its three distinct zones, Monte Baldo, La Rocca and Sampo Campagna see Rose as key expression of their celebrated terroirs and the variety Corvina.
If you are living life without Chiaretto Rose you are missing an incredible expression of a distinct land, a historic region and an indellible slice of life
In order of appearance
1) Le Fraghe Rodon
2) Casaretti Rose Dei Casaretti
3) Villabella Chairetto di Bardolino DOC Classico
4) Zeni 1870 Chiaretto Bardolino Amphora
5)Villa Cordevigo 2018 Gaudenza
6)Poggio Delle Grazie Chiaretto
7) Gentili Chiaretto
8) Monte Del Fra Chairetto di Bardolino
Speaking of hats. After 12 years, I am rethinking my hat situation. What was once unique is no longer. And with that, I ask you, what should replace The Siren’s typical hat? In the last photo I replaced it albiet temporarily on top of the Mayacamas… What say you?
PS Had to take a break after a broken nose, and popped cap after my Italy excursion. What a long strange trip the last week has been.
#Bardolino #TheWineSiren #KellyMitchell #Wine #rosé #chiarettodibardolino #bardolinocru #lakegarda #Verona #winetravel #toprosé #DrinkPink #qualityrosé #winelife #Travelblogger #winesofitaly #winejudge #travelblog ...
A return to Bardolino to celebrate Rosé and its most important variety. Corvina!
A tasting of a weighty magnitude and profiles of exceptional expression. Traditional notes that express this food friendly, titillating palate provocateur of Rosé.
The vintage is showing incredibly well. Due to temperature variation the vintage is showing an increased level of acidity adding to the already exceptional presence of salinity & vibrancy.
The featured tasting of Chiaretto from the subzones of Monte Baldo, La Rocca, and Soma Campagna…
With flavors ranging from crunchy nectarines to red berries and beyond, this is Rosé for a palate that enjoys something beyond poolside fare, diverse in its pairing abilities.
Exceptional. Phenomenal values. Stay tuned for my top 5 recommendations.
More to come!
#TheWineSiren #KellyMitchell #Wine #chiarettodibardolino #bardolinocru #corvina #lakegarda #roseallday #rosé #sipitalian #breaktherules #sipoutsidethebox #greatfriends #drinkpink ...
Chablis oh how I love thee. Let 💋🍷💋#TheWineSiren count the ways.
⭐️Your racy adventurous soul, always ready to compliment a multitude of foods and celebrations .
💫Your exceptional length and perseverance in the name of good taste.
🌟The impressing mid palate acknowledgement.
✨And above all, the resounding celebration of the senses.
🍽 Paired to perfection with black truffles tossed with pasta, freshly grated parmesan cheese, sea salt & freshly ground pepper.
🌏You are made in the name of our planet’s future with sustainable practices. Always an eye on the future and setting a precedent for others in taking care of the planet. What is next?
🍇Almost 1/2 of their 78 hectares are dedicated to Premier Cru and Grand Cru classifications.
🍾William Fevre’s first harvest was in 1959 with just seven hectares and a legacy of descendents who resided in this illustrious region for some 250 years .
🛢The wine is aged in older oak barrels of 6 + yrs. It preserves the expression of freshness of minerality but also highlights the evocative floral notes.
💚* Practicing sustainable growing in its vineyards for nearly 10 years now, Domaine William Fèvre has just obtained “High Environmental Value” (HVE) status, the highest level of environmental certification (February 2015).
#TheWineSiren #KellyMitchell #giveasip #earthmonth #everdayisearthday #chablis #frenchwine #whitewine #winelovers #memorable #liveforthestory #premierecru #grandcru #winelife #winetasting #winetravel #wineinfluencer #travelblogger ...
Hard to imagine I’d never been to Rombauer. It took an industry event and an invitation from @mvino1 to get me there.
This family-owned @napagreen certified #winery was founded in 1980 by Koerner and Joan Rombauer. They own and sustainable farm over 650 acres of vineyards from Carneros, Stags Leap, Atlas Peak, St Helena, the Sierra Foothills and of course Calistoga.
I was pretty blown away by what I experienced. From their flagship Chardonnay, served from a nine liter Salmanazar to the Carneros-grown Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, delicious sips were everywhere.
A Napa Valley staple, paired with paella and light bites was a great way to get in on a first time experience here.
Still visible, some burn scars that almost consumed the property from the Glass Fire two years ago. What shook me were both the mind-blowing views and the astute hospitality of every team member on the property. This is a place you must visit. In the name of great wine and indelible experiences.
Pictured on slide ten l to r, @mvino @erinscally @lshariati and moi .
Thank you to the leadership and team @rombauervineyards
#TheWineSiren #KellyMitchell #napagreen #sustainable #climateaction #napacru #truecru #napavalley #visitnapavalley #wine #winetasting #wineexperiences #wheretonext #Winestyle #chardonnay #sauvignonblanc #merlot #zinfandel #wineblogger #travelvlogger #winetasting #bestviews ...
On this windy and stunning day we welcome the owners of Alpha Omega Winery, Robin and Michelle Baggett. We’re talking about sustainable wine growing and winemaking.
They joined forces creating Alpha Omega in 2005. Their position & work on sustainability makes them a True Cru Napa Valley winery.
Robin was a former cattleman and had his eye on sustainability and was involved in sustainable for well over 20 years.
His focus has always been on water reduction. His goal today is zero emissions and they are actively doing this today. The goal? To leave this planet better than it was found.
Please listen in to this delightful experience on sustainability with @aowinery …
#Sustainable #climateaction #sustainablewine #netzeroemissions #certifiedsustainable #napavalley #visitnapavalley #gogreen #napacru #truecru ...
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20 Responses
I am surprised Spain is not on your short list. Such a beautiful country and a great place to visit. I have been all over Spain but never Bierzo. It does seem like a best kept secret. It looks lovely and the wines sound great too. Thank you for the introduction to this region. The wine world is so vast. It is fun to explore them all. Cheers!
Hi Michelle, Spain was not on my short list prior to visiting. Now I know what I am missing and it is in top three destinations I would travel to. I am eager to explore many of the other places in Spain, and around the world. The wine world is indeed very big. So happy you enjoyed the piece. The wines are definitely amazing.
Wow! Spain has so much variety of wine, before this post I have not known. Thanks For sharing this information. I try most of the listed wine soon
Thanks very mucho to show Bierzo and Bierzo Wine to world this is our beautiful place, incredible land. Thanks again .!
El Bierzo and his people a misteru land with Celtic histpry and people warm. The Bierzo wines are the best way com8ng a new flavors word.
Pablo, You are right. The people are so warm and inviting, and the El Bierzo wines are a must to taste!
Hola Michelle
En el Bierzo tenemos de todo es muy rico
Vinos, y muy buena gastronomía, entre otras muchas cosas
Y como no. un turismo rural de lo mejor
Nuestras casas rurales son preciosas. Con el encanto. de esta Tierra. , nuestro. BIERZO
CONSULTE NUESTRA. WEB
http://www.eramarina. es
Espero. que algún día nos visite.
Un saludo
Nieves
I agree with you Nieves. So beautiful and charming. Thank you for commenting!
Los vinos del bierzo son excepcionales!!!!
It is indeed Maria. Thank you so much!
Lot of thanks.
El Bierzo, special land, special lanscapes, special wines.
http://www.primusbergidum.com
It truly is. Love that place! Thank you Amando.
Please don’t take my comment as a criticism, just notice the name of the area is El Bierzo not Bierzo, as Los Angeles and not Angeles.
Great article!!
Regards
Hi Elena,
I just corrected the spelling. Thank you so much for pointing out the error!
Thanks a million! Your gesture said lots about you. I voted for your article, of course! Best of luck!
Thank you so much Beautiful! I do appreciate that. Cheers!
Thank you Kelly. I’m from el Bierzo, although I live inBarcelona. In my opinion the landscape of this region is wonderful and its villages beautiful, but I didn’t know about its wines, maybe because I don’t like wine. However I am glad to know they are being worldwide considered. I hope more people will want to visit my region after reading your article .
It’s such an extraordinary place Mari. It was an honor to write about it. Thank you for reading. And yes, I too wish more people to visit. It is an amazing destination.
What interests me is that wine made from grape Mencia. Where can I get that here in Victoria, Australia? I just love wines and aside from the taste, it is very healthy drink especially for the heart.
It’s really interesting that the aging of Godello wines is what brings out the flavors and notes. With that in mind, I will start looking into a bottle of Godello that has been aged at least 20 years. I would really like to taste a wine that dances over my tastebuds.