Rhône Awakening in Provence with Chêne Bleu
The wind is petulant near the river, whipping up a cool breeze. I clutch my wrap and an errant wisp of hair dances in my face while I try to stay warm. I’m heading off to Angéle. A relaxing little gem on the Napa River. Its cozy atmosphere and delightful morsels of goodness are perfect for tasting. I am meeting with a former Wall Street investment banker who consulted for the likes of the Rockefellers. Her affluent upbringing introduced her to the world of wine early on. Her mother was a chef and food critic, her father a wine collector. Nicole Rolet left everything she knew to live in a remote part of the Provence region of France for a man and a place, Chene Bleu.
As I sit down, we engage in small talk for a moment to get oriented and introduced. The intense energy of Nicole consists of focus and curiosity. The lovely aspect of this meeting is her genuine nature. There are no airs, no pretense, simply a delightful enthusiasm to share her story. I ask Nicole about the journey. Where this beautiful American woman, raised in NYC and Milan began and how she met her French husband. She likens the meeting to the Aha video of the 80’s, where a comic strip character invites a young woman to experience a parallel universe. He offers his hand, and she impulsively joins him on a whim, pulled into his world. Here her journey began with Xavier Rolet, the man with a dream and leaped into his adventure.
Early into their relationship, they found a piece of property abandoned by time with no water, electricity and outbuildings full of sheep dung. The location, protected by forests where people thrived for a thousand years, from Knights Templar to men and women who took vows when it was a priory. While the restoration was a project of an unimaginable magnitude, the work began. Starting in the vineyards, they worked to retrain old vines that could be saved and infused the land with more Rhône varietals. They did this by preserving the original Syrah, Grenache while adding Mourvèdre for the Reds. They also added Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache Blanc for whites. In total, the plantings now cover some 80 acres. This compelling destination where quality outshines volume of fruit, as the perfect nature of the grapes they grow.
This enchanting haven far above the clouds exists in the south of France where souls from ions ago once tilled the land. Left forgotten for hundreds of years, it is hidden from view and protected by oak and pine tree forests. It began as a monastery in 600 AD. With the advent of progress, it was left to languish until discovered by the Rolet’s. It boasts one of the highest vineyard elevations in Provence. The land, complemented by extreme temperature shifts and 21 different winds, contribute to the incredible success of the wine. Nicole reflects on the reason they purchased and restored the location, ” We were in love not only with the history but with the land and it’s potential to grow remarkable grapes from vines planted so long ago.”
Chene Bleu means Blue Oak.
The location borders where the Provence and Rhône Appellations meet. These two tectonic plates came together and pushed the earth high into the heavens and created jagged peaks near Gigondas AOC in the Dentelles de Montmirail on Mont Ventoux. It is distinctly higher than its neighboring terroir, Chateauneuf du Pape which is peaks at 380 feet. At 1800 feet, Chene Bleu is nestled amongst the clouds and some of the most wine friendly weather on the planet. During growing season this crazy combination of earth and minerals make for incredible wines.
You see the soil, and the terroir is one of a kind. The thin layer of topsoil consists of chalk and clay. The billion-year-old bedrock includes seabeds, complete with petrified snail shells and riverbed stones. “On your first step into the wine world to have that gift from God is a pretty extraordinary place to start,” Nicole explains. The wines made a sensation as the first Super Rhônes, winning recognition from the Wall Street Journal. On this journey of exploration and making a name for Chene Bleu, they hired not only the top microbiologists (Claude and Lydia Bourguignon) in the space but also were determined to grow outside the established appellation system to create the best possible wine for their region.
I’ve been fascinated by the story of Abelard and Heloise, a nun and monk from the 11th century, who fell in love. The story has remained with me since the 1980’s in Paris when standing at their grave site and first learning about them. So far apart in age, and worlds away in life. Who were forced to relinquished the possibilities of being together, but managed to maintain a connection over the years through letters. With a love so strong it transcended the people who tried so hard to keep them apart. Chene Bleu has incorporated an important part of this history into the brand and make a great wine in honor of this tragically lovestruck pair. United in death by Josephine Bonaparte in the Pére Lachaise cemetery, Paris, France, the lovers are represented by Grenache and Syrah blends named after them.
The love of the land, the dazzling destination Nicole & Xavier created is apparent. However, to say they’ve done all this for themselves would be irresponsible. Truly this is a place to be shared as Nicole says. So other’s may enjoy and partake. They’ve created La Verrière, a part of the estate dedicated to education and seminars. Extreme Wine, an all-inclusive, high-level retreat for all walks of wine experience interested in taking their knowledge to superpower levels. The course, taught by Clive Barlow, the Chairman of Education at the Institute of Masters of Wine is an immersive experience. Whether a history lover, want to be wine aficionado or simply one seeking out the creature comforts with a powerful spiritual experience, you can achieve all three.
Tasting Notes:
2013 Chêne Bleu Viognier: Pear & delicate apricot beckon. It’s a deliciously refreshing wine with a lingering memorable finish.
2014 Chêne Bleu Rosè: Divine strawberry, with citrus. The nose is elegant, enticing. The palate finishes long and smooth.
Chêne Bleu Héloïse: Syrah Grenache Viognier Not a timid red, but one that opens like a flower every moment it breathes. Exquisite cherries, vanilla & sweet spices. It’s full bodied with a brilliant finish and a caress of soft tannins.
Chêne Bleu Abélard: Grenache Syrah Rich and powerfully elegant. Nuances of pepper with wonderful blackberry, cherry & anise. Its finish is long and distinct.
Kelly Mitchell
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All I want to do... is have some fun @tressabores #NapaValley check them out. Absolutely outstanding down to earth vibe and wine that`s better for you and planet earth. Sustainable, organic & truly killer wine! #certifiedsustainable #certifiedorganic
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I know no joy as great as a moment of rushing into a new love, no ecstasy like that of a new love.
~ Anais Nin
The words say it all. Magnificent drink. If you can get it. @turleywine 2015 Napa Valley Library Block Petite Syrah
Dark, brooding with a side of magnificent freshness.
And now back to Paris for a formidably fabulous Friday! Michelin-star restaurant- check! Fabulous dark and exquisite library for enjoying cocktails, a breathtaking entrance of a French hideaway from years ago...
Stunning Michelin star restaurant and beautiful bibliothèque with Parisian friends.
Bookmark this spot! I don’t often share where I dine unless I am out of the country, but because so many people ask 💋🍷💋#TheWineSiren I am going to change that. Take my favorite brunch and Fried Chicken spot! @southsidenapa offers not only some of the freshest most inviting dishes in Napa, they also have a wide array of coffee, tea, wine and bubbles to pair your dishes with.
Its one of the few #petfriendly places with great food and an inviting team. Lots of talent here in the food arena and the outdoor seating area is equipped with swinging chairs, a fire pit and comfortable seating inside and out.
Fried Chicken you ask? Yes! Pairs perfectly with your Napa Valley Sparkling and #Champagne.The best in Napa Valley. Make sure and call ahead, they often sell out.
Hours are 8am-2pm
Breakfast served all day and an expanded lunch menu.
With over 30 years of sustainability under their belt, Domaine Carneros has a big headstart in the way of sustainability. They built the first significant solar installation, recognized as the largest in the world at the time. Far beyond complacent, Domaine Carneros continues to push the limits and try new techniques and strategies to improve their abilities.
Domaine Carneros
An incredible indulgence and the ultimate experience.
It’s in my neighborhood. Two miles away door to door. Why do I find myself returning again and again? Because this is one of the most stunning destinations in Carneros and Napa Valley. Stunning in both taste and views.
The skies, the ultimate blue, the vineyard hills throughout the landscape. It’s a breathtaking pinch yourself situation no matter how often you visit.
The team is so welcoming and the sparkling wine is world class and made sustainably. If you’re ready to step up your sparkling wine game this is where you need to be.
The wines tasted:
2016 Estate Brut Cuvée (late disgorge) ripe pear, white flowers, creamy, beautiful structure.
2019 Brut Rosé Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, incredible well poised, citrus, red berries, almonds and floral notes
2015 Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs Tête de Cuvée The dream. A signature must taste from the most prized blocks of Chardonnay. Evocative of citrus curd, pie crust, a nuance of ginger and tart lemon. I could drink this all day every day!
2017 Ultra Brut Tropical fruit, lime, lemon zest, crisp, lovely palate and exquisite finish.
The ultimate indulgence, featuring three of Tsar Nicoulai’s finest caviars:
Classic, Select, and Golden Reserve
Served with potato chips, toast points, and Cowgirl Creamery crème fraîche.
Make your reservation today!
Domainecarneros.com and ask for the caviar experience!
#TheWineSiren #DomaineCarneros #CertifiedSustainable #NapaValley #WinePairing #SparklingWine
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This is an interesting tale. Love the historical back story that goes along with its development. Thanks for another interesting little trip to a fascinating place with blue oaks and new wines I will look forward to enjoying someday.