With over 200 years of making great champagne under their belts Champagne Henriot and the changing landscape of the world, I had asked Alice some specific questions about climate change, adapting to the changing environment, and the process of making champagne. Further, we tasted these remarkable vintages and got into the particulars of winegrowing and winemaking.
TWS (The Wine Siren): Tell us about tradition vs experimentation for Champagne Henriot.
Tetienne: We respect the story in the way of tradition,. We don’t innovate a lot in winemaking. Our philosophy at Henriot is to express the vineyards through Champagne. Make blends. We respect the story first. We do want to be modern we adapt ourselves to things around us. So today, we change with climate change and our minds about viticulture. In the 70s, champagne was vinified in oak barrels. Before the 70s, we had new equipment, steel tanks, that arrived in Champagne. Joseph Henriot, the 7th generation, thought there was great opportunity to age the reserve wines this way. Because in his mind a perfect champagne needed to have old reserve wine. That’s why he decided to use stainless steel. He thought it was good to consider the primary profile of the terroir and express better the terroir without adding another influence with aromatic oak barrels. It’s not innovation but adaptation.
TWS: How has climate change impacted the vineyards?
Tetienne: We have more extremes in terms of weather. It’s not just global warming. Last year it was a year of no sun. Just two weeks. It was a season without the sun in 2021. 2022 conversely, was a record for sunshine. We had more sun than ever.
TWS: How does this impact how you grow?
Tetienne: During the harvest, we follow the maturity, we taste the grapes, we analyze the grapes, and normally, we have the acidity that decreases, the sugar that increases, and the aroma that increases. In the past, we’ve had these three parameters occur simultaneously. Now it’s disconnected. You can have the sugar you need. The acidity has disappeared, and the aromatic disappears. You have to be more present and patient. So you have to wait for the dynamics to return.
TWS: How often are you in the vineyards prior to harvest?
Tetienne: We have 200 plots under vine. Some micro plots and some bigger ones. I walk all of the plots every day. We make a selection of grapes, and we taste. From the beginning of the harvest to the end, I taste the grapes every day.
TWS: How is technology making your life easier or more difficult?
Tetienne: More difficult. The more you know the less you know. We can’t focus on the past and our experiences because the landscape changes every season.
TWS: What is your opinion on so-called “wine experts”?
Tetienne: There are no experts in wine. We have to be humble. Everything changes. The objective of wine is to take pleasure. We cannot be 100% experts because we cannot explain or know everything. The weather we cannot explain. The evolution of nature we cannot explain. The biodiversity that changes from one year to the next we cannot explain. Every aspect of the process has so many variables.
TWS: Lots of big changes happening in Bordeaux. Varieties etc. Is Champagne doing any experimenting to adapt to climate change?
Tetienne: Yes, we have a new variety, Voltis. They are doing experiments in the vineyard to see if the quality is good or not. It is resistant to fungus, and the initiative is in response to the increase of diseases in the vineyard.
Note: Her preference is to find a solution working with the seven established varieties of Champagne. The best known are Pinot Meunière, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also include Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Messier and Arbanne.
TWS: How does your tasting committee work?
Tetienne: We are four people. Blending is a few months of work, not a few days. Generally from November to April. When I taste the wine, I imagine where I will put the wine, which cuvée, and how I will organize it. At least one per cru from the last harvest. This creates the foundation. Because perceptions vary, the other people on the committee will also provide opinions. In April, I am in my office very focused. Doing different versions of blends and selecting the best. If we are not convinced, we continue the exercise. At the end of the sessions, I will make the final decision. Focus is a critical part of this process. There is a quiet private house in the vineyard where they often receive guests. When the blend is pure, I go to the house to do the evaluations alone. Without interruption.